Fall in Western Alaska comes early. It always seems as though the grass
and willows have just greened up, and the snow from last winter has almost
melted. We’ve just began to enjoy the warm weather, the fishing, and
being outdoors in shirt sleeves. Then it hits. That first morning that
you wake up to frost all over everything, and the mood seems to change.
Yes, it’s already approaching. Within days, the blueberries will be at
their best, the last sustenance the tundra has to offer before it freezes
up. Within a week, the country side will begin a transformation from
green to shades of gold, red, orange, and finally brown. There is a sense
of urgency in the air to get in that last trip, that last outing before
the rivers begin to ice over. The termination dust has made its first
appearance on top of the highest ridges, and will continue down the slope
as the temperature gradually cools. The streetlights finally come on at
night…
Getting up in the morning it’s still dark, and I
enjoy this quiet time of the day as I brew up a pot of coffee. There’s no
hurry to get out on the river, it won’t be light yet for another hour. I
have a spot in mind for the day, and begin to ready my gear.
The last runs of salmon are nearing the end of the
line. Some are still in good shape and provide a good fight on a fly
rod. Most have finished their life’s quest to return to their home river
to spawn, and now are swimming slowly around the pools that will become
mass graveyards for fish, providing important nutrients back into the
river system. The Dolly Varden and Grayling will carry-on through the
winter, and though they are fat from a summer of eating fry, insects,
eggs, and flesh, are taking the last available opportunities to feed
before their world becomes covered with ice. They begin to congregate in
the deeper, slower sections of the river that will provide shelter during
the long winter. They begin to conserve energy as the water temps drop.
Every meal is a trade off. Energy expended vs. energy gained.
My fishing partner and I hit the river at 10am. It’s
a brisk 36 degrees, and we each are prepared with an extra layer. The
overcast all night prevented a frost this morning. The air is cold and
crisp, and water is colder. The sound of birds that had filled the air
only weeks ago was now replaced by an eerie silence. Bear sign is
everywhere, in the form of skeleton fish on shore, prints, and piles of
processed berries. The leaves on the bushes have now turned a dark
orange. We tie on some large, flashy flies and begin to dead drift them
with short strips as we make our way down this quiet section of river. I
make a long cast, try for a soft landing to avoid spooking the fish. Take
my time, get the fly down. Fish low, fish slow, cover a lot of river.
And don’t forget the coffee.
-BR
September 10th
Time: 5:00pm
Air Temp: 55°F
Wind: Calm
Weather: Clear
A few of us went out for a last try for fall coho. We caught and
released several red coho and kept one fresh chrome silver. Pink woolly
buggers and pixies were the flies/lures of choice today.
September
28th
Time: 10:00am
Air Temp: 36°F
Wind: Calm
Weather: Overcast
Ben and Chris looking for Dollies. No luck, just a red coho for each of
us.
October 5th
Time:
3:00pm
Air Temp: 40°F
Wind: Calm
Weather: Clear
Ben after Dollies. Caught two, about 19 inches.
October
9th
Time: 2:00pm
Air Temp: 45°F
Wind: NE at 25-30mph
Weather: Overcast, Rain, heavy at times
Ben and Nathan hooked 3 dollies, landed one that we kept for the frying
pan. We used pink and orange egg patterns with small lead weight.
October
14th
Time: 5:00pm
Air Temp: 40°F
Wind: Calm
Weather: Partly cloudy
I spent a quick 15 minutes after work and caught one small dolly in fast,
medium-depth water.
Halloween
Time: 2:00pm
Air Temp: 28°F
Wind: Calm
Weather: Overcast, light snow
Today it was just me fishing for dollies. I caught two nice dollies in
deep water. The water is high right now; it’s been raining for some
time. The first dolly put up a good fight, felt like a large one, but got
off. I landed the second one. It was a spawned out male with a large
hooked jaw. The fish measured at just over 23 inches total length.
